Melbourne winter has a personality all of its own. One minute it is grey, sideways rain and “why did I leave the house?” weather, and the next it is a cool, sunny afternoon that absolutely deserves a good glass of wine. So, we are starting our winter picks with a slightly controversial choice: 2024 Wayward Child Pinot Gris. White wine in winter? Absolutely. This is not just a summer seafood wine. With pear, stone fruit, lifted citrus and subtle spice, it has enough texture and length to feel comforting while still staying fresh and bright. It is perfect for those crisp winter afternoons when the sun is out, the air is cold and you want something refreshing without pretending it is still January.

Next is the obvious winter classic: 2021 Unicorn Cabernet Sauvignon. Smooth, savoury and beautifully balanced, this is the kind of red that belongs on the table when the slow cooker comes out. Dark cherry, blackcurrant, dried herbs, chocolate and gentle oak make it a natural fit for roast lamb, beef stew, shepherd’s pie or a good old-fashioned steak night. It also works beautifully with Chinese home cooking, especially dishes with soy, black bean, braised beef, mushrooms, five spice or char siu-style sweetness. It has enough structure for richer food, but it is still medium-bodied and approachable enough to enjoy without needing a fireplace and a leather-bound book.

To finish, we are going with something a little indulgent: Wayward Child NV Bastion – Cool Climate Fortified. In the cellar door, we often talk about this as a summer-time mulled wine alternative: served over ice with a cinnamon stick and orange slice, it is rich, spiced and dangerously easy to enjoy. But in winter, it might be even better. Skip the ice, keep the orange and cinnamon if you like, and pour yourself something warming without the hassle of making mulled wine from scratch. Because when it is 6pm, pitch black outside and about 6 degrees, sometimes all you want is to rug up, settle in and enjoy a glass of something sweet, spiced and comforting.